DMZ - Part Three

The final stop on the USO DMZ Tour was to The Third Tunnel of Aggression. It was dug by North Korea and discovered by South Korea on October 17, 1978. Two other tunnels were discovered previously and it is rumored that there are 17 tunnels either completed or being constructed at any given time along the DMZ.

This tunnel is located only27 miles from Seoul. It is approximately 73 meters from the surface and is 1.1 mile long. It is said that it is 2 meters wide and 2 meters high. I disagree that the height of the tunnel being 2 meters unless it has shrunk since 1978.

It is said that if used by North Korea, 30,000 troops and equipment could have passed through the tunnel in an hour. South Korea perceived these tunnel discoveries as a direct threat to South Korea. North Korea's answer was that the tunnel was part of a coal mine and even went so far as to spray paint areas black to look like coal.

A warning to those who wish to venture down into the tunnel. If you have a heart condition, high blood pressure, have bad knees or legs or are TALL (like my hubby), I wouldn't recommend the walk.

The initial entrance consists of a 358 meter descent with such a steep angle, it was hard to keep your feet from running. I found my knees really sore by the time we got to the bottom which is the entrance to the actual tunnel. In the back of my mind, I realized we would have to walk back up from where we came.

They have hard hats for you to put on before you begin to protect your head. Poor Curt (hubby), he is just shy of 2 meters and was bent to his waist just about the entire length of the tunnel. IT IS NOT 2 METERS TALL! I even had to duck my head most of the time and I'm only 5' 5". I heard a lot of groaning from Curt and when I would asked if he wanted to turn back, he never really said anything.

You are not allowed to take any pictures in the cave. At the end is a steel wall which seals the tunnel off. We looked at the wall and turned around to begin the journey back. By the time we had to climb the 358 meters back up and out of the tunnel, I was dying. It was tough.

The exit from the tunnel. The roads into the DMZ had roadblocks so that the bus had to do a zigzag pattern to get through. We were not allowed to take pictures of these roadblocks but it would be impossible to maneuver around them at a high rate of speed.

On the bus ride back to Seoul, we saw many of these guard shacks about every 100 yards. If you look closely, you can see three South Korean soldiers at the bottom of the picture. Almost all the shacks were occupied by at least one South Korea soldier.

The DMZ is the most heavily armed border in the world. I've also heard it contains the most land mines. We saw many mine warning signs. On the bus ride back to Seoul, I was surprised to see miles and miles of barbed wire.

Traffic back to Seoul was stop and go. We have often seen people selling food in the traffic jam right there on the highway.

Interesting rims on this car.

I was surprised to find out that Korean citizens cannot tour the DMZ without special authorization. It usually takes two months for the authorization. The reason is South Korea is worried some of their citizens may defect to North Korea. I find that hard to believe.

If you want a thorough and informative tour of the DMZ, I highly recommend the USO tour. Right now, it runs on Thursdays and Saturdays. I learned so much and have even more respect for those who serve in the Armed Forces.

DMZ - Part Two

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One of the stops on the USO DMZ tour was the site of The Panmunjom Axe Murder which occurred approximately 11:00 am on August 18, 1976. A UNC work force was pruning a poplar tree that was blocking the view between two guard posts. It was considered routine work and had been done by both sides in the past.

A group consisting of 4 UNC guards and 6 Korean Service Corps workers gathered to begin the work of trimming the tree. A KPA (Korean People's Army) guard told them to leave the tree alone. The JSA commander in response placed a 10 man quick reaction force nearby along with additional guards and cameras.

Work began at 10:30 am when at 10:50 am, a KPA lieutenant demanded the work to stop. The officer in charge, Captain Bonifas, directed the work to continue since it was needed and also routine. The KPA lieutenant dispatched reinforcements which grew to about 30 by 11:00 am. Once more the KPA officer ordered work to cease. When it was ignored, he removed his watch wrapping it in a handkerchief and placed it into his pocket. He then ordered his men to "Kill the Americans!"

The KPA took the axes that were being used and attacked the two American officers. The fight lasted a total of 4 minutes. The attack was halted when a truck driver pulled his truck forward to try to protect the American officers. The KPA guards retreated across the Bridge of No Return. Captain Bonifas and Lietenant Barrett were brutally murdered while 4 U.S. soldiers and 4 ROK (Republic of Korea) soldiers were injured. KPA casualties were never known. This all being caught and recorded on numerous cameras. The photo above is from just before the attack occurred.

This is the memorial for the fallen men. The base is the exact size of the original tree. You can see up to the right of the photo one of the guard houses that was being obscured by the tree.

Another view of the memorial. The tree was cut down August 21, 1976 after troops were scrambled ready for deployment to the area. The removal of the tree was known as Operation Paul Bunyan.

We also were able to see the North Korean village of Kijong-dong which is known as Propaganda Village. It was known primarily for its extensive loud speaker system that broad casted the praises of Kim Jong-Il. They used to broadcast 6-12 hours a day, mostly at night. The village is uninhabited with 15-20 caretakers that raise and lower the flag and maintain the facilities.

The flag pole is 160 meters high and flies a 30 meter long flag.

This is the Bridge of No Return where prisoners of war were returned. The prisoners were given the choice of remaining in the country of their capture knowing they could never return to their home once their decision was made.

Big brother was watching everything!!

View of North Korea.

North Korea.

North Korea.

Panoramic view of North Korea.

DMZ - Part One

The best way to tour the DMZ is through the USO. We were very impressed with how organized and informative the tour was. We had to be in Seoul by 7:15 am. to get checked in at the USO office at Camp Kim in Seoul. We were told which bus to report to and at what time. We ended up with about a half hour wait.

The trip took about an hour and we arrived at Camp Bonifas which is the base camp for the United Nations Command Security Force - Joint Security Area. It is located 400 meters south of the southern boundary of the Demilitarized Zone.

We were given a briefing in Ballinger Hall prior to visiting the JSA (Joint Security Area). We were allowed to take pictures during this briefing. We were also told that we would be told when pictures were allowed and when they would not be.

The picture above is of the current leader of North Korea, Kim Jong-Il and the picture on the right is of his father.

We had to sign a document and I didn't read it so I couldn't tell you what it said. We went back into the bus and proceeded to the JSA.

This was our U.S. guide for Camp Bonifas. He briefed us on how we should conduct ourselves (no gesturing to the North Korean solders) and pointed out what each building was in the area.

You can see the North Korean solder underneath the sign. They added the third level to be taller than the building we exited out of.

A South Korean soldier standing in a Tae Kwon Do ready position. He never moved.

Cameras watching everything.

This is a North Korean building. We were told that North Korean soldiers will mock and gesture to South Korea soldiers from time to time.

Better view of a North Korean soldier. I heard that the North Korean soldiers must serve for 12 years and that North Korea puts the sons of wealthy (if there is such a thing) families in the DMZ because they would be less likely to defect. Their families would be severely punished.

Another view of the North Korean building.

Inside the JSA, we were standing in North Korea. This is the table where talks between the two Koreas occur.

Curt (hubby) with a South Korean soldier and he is standing in North Korea.

North Korean soldier.

We had to get a picture of us in North Korea.

That's me with the South Korean soldier. Nobody else would get close to the soldier. They said it was fine as long we we didn't go behind him.

The Korean soldiers also wear ball bearings sewn into their pant cuffs which ching when they walk. It is meant to sound like there are many of them. Part two coming.